Where To Eat Tapas In Tarifa
Where to eat the best tapas in Tarifa.
We arrive at the port of Tarifa after a short ride on the ferry across from Tangier, Morocco. The sun is hot and high in the clear, bluebird sky and the anticipation of the gastronomic tour ahead of us has me salivating. I have long been in love with Spanish cuisine, the simplicity of the recipes, the respect for quality and provenance, and most of all, tapas - never-ending possibilities to taste local ingredients and delicacies that speak profoundly of time, people and place.
This sleepy little surf town on the southernmost tip of the Iberian Peninsula has plenty to offer those who make this their destination. Tarifa is fast becoming one of Spain’s coolest cities, and after a few hours on the ground, it's easy to see how. Situated on Costa de la Luz and the Strait of Gibraltar looking across to Morocco, Tarifa is home to long sandy beaches and strong winds that have helped make this one of Europe's top kite surfing destinations. This is a town where beach life is the way of life. Wandering through the old town, you can’t help thinking to yourself how you can I stay longer? Life is idyllic here. It's common to see suntanned locals carrying their surf gear through the narrow cobblestoned streets of the ancient city on their way to the beach. Life here looks good.
We hightail it to our hotel, keen to drop the bags and get down to some serious eating. We stay at Hostel Alborada, small tight rooms but everything you need for a comfortable night's sleep at a great price. Located just a short walk from the beaches and old town, and owners who may well be the happiest people on earth; in the back office, you can often hear the owner singing at the top of his lungs to himself and always only too happy to share tips, advice and recommendations.
On the main street, Bar Frances serves up quality tapas and plates with a more modern touch in favours and presentation. Inside is cramped and standing room only for about a dozen people, but outside there is a leafy bougainvillaea-canopied terrace and a couple of prime people-watching tables at the front door. Must haves are the pluma Iberico- a prized cut from the lower neck of the pig, incredibly tender and fatty, cooked over flames and served with seasonal roast vegetables - it's superb. Spain loves a cold soup to cleanse the pallet and refresh the appetite, and in Andalusia, that soup is Salmorejo. Similar to gazpacho, only thicker and creamer, it is a simple blend of the summer's best tomatoes, crusty stale bread, and garlic and emulsified with the bold, fruity virgin olive oils that the region is famous for. It is garnished with the customary diced Jamon and smoked almonds at Frances and tastes like summer in a bowl.
Lunch on the terrace, shaded from the summer sun, cold, crisp lager on tap makes it hard to go past a plate of chipirones á la plancha - grilled baby squid. Served with a simple coleslaw and some house-made potato crisps; this is summer food done right. Addicted to potatoes since I was a kid, I am constantly drawn to patatas bravas when visiting Spain, and El Frances serves a perfect version with a sweet, spicy brava sauce. We spent two days in Tarifa and ate here both days, that’s how good it was.
A short hop around the corner takes you to El Lola. This place is always packed with the locals, so you can be sure it is good. They love their tuna here and serve huge steaks grilled with just a little salt and a tuna degustation menu with tuna cooked and served three ways. Their shrimp and avocado salad is a local favourite too.
Braseria Vaca Loca is the place to come from meat, particularly beef. Cooked over wood charcoal in the ‘kitchen’ - a grill set in the stone walls at the end of the bar - where you’ll get delicious cuts of meat served simply with chips and salad. They also make a selection of skewers and lamb chops and there is more of the pluma Iberico and secreto Iberico - the ‘secret’ cut of pork from between the shoulders and neck, another ridiculously tender and flavourful piece of meat. Inside is cosy but out on the street is where all the action is and a great place to spend a few hours people-watching. There is a short wine list featuring all the usual suspects, but if you are feeling adventurous, ask the knowledgeable wait staff for wine recommendations, they have some great bottles not listed on the blackboard.
La Tapeo is another spot frequented by locals in their numbers. And for a good reason, seafood tapas is their speciality and they use only the freshest produce caught that day. Plates are served with little fuss and make up for what they lack in presentation with flavour. Be sure to try their anchovies lightly floured and fried, served with lemon, and the pescalitos fritos; a plate of whole fried fish—simple, delicious tapas.
While the afternoons and evenings are for grazing on fresh seafood, tapas and wines, the days are for sunshine and beaches. Tarifa’s two most popular beaches are some of the best in Spain and whether you are catching air off the waves on your kiteboard, or just topping up the tan, Tarifa beaches will not disappoint.
Playa de Los Lances is located just north of the town, a pristine, 10-kilometre stretch of golden sand. Venture a few kilometres north, and you’ll be rewarded with Playa de Valdevaqueros, where the Levante and Poniente winds (easterly and westerly, respectively) shift and sculpt the ever-changing dunes. The surfer vibes are high at the many chiringuitos (beach bars) dotted along. Content with a day close to town, we soak up the sun for hours on an almost empty beach before heading to Waikiki beach bar for some much-needed G&Ts.
No trip to Tarifa is complete without immersing yourself in its deep history. Head to the Castle of Tarifa, locally known as Castillo de Guzman el Bueno - Guzman the Good, named after Alonso Pérez de Guzmán (1256–1309), the commander who valiantly defended the town from a Moorish attack in 1294. Legend has it that his enemy held his son captive and threatened to kill him unless Guzman surrendered the city. Guzman offered his knife and stated that his son would never be used by his enemy; instead, his life would serve his king and country.
